Add water until the mix is saturated, and stir it with a piece of scrap. Pour dry concrete mix into the hole up to a few inches below grade. Add a few inches of drainage stone around the post. Using a level on two adjacent sides, adjust the supports to make the post plumb. Tack a 1x scrap to the post's front face to stand in for the sleeve, and make sure it touches the mason line. Clamp two furring strips to adjacent sides to prop up the post in the hole, as shown. Add or subtract stone to get your post height. Pour 6 inches of drainage stone into the hole and tamp it with the post. Step 4: Set the Post Photo by Kolin Smith In that case, wrap a section of the post with self-adhesive flashing, starting near the bottom and extending above the concrete line but below ground level. If you're using concrete, you'll want to keep water from seeping between it and the wood. Mark your hole depth on the handle of a posthole digger in painter's tape, and dig 6 inches below the frost line and to a diameter three times the size of the post Step 3: Wrap the Post Photo by Kolin Smith But anyone with very sandy soil should sink the post in concrete, like we did. Typically, digging beyond the frost line and setting at least one-third of the post in tamped crushed stone and soil works fine. Step 2: Dig the first posthole Photo by Kolin Smith A bigger triangle (say 9, 12, and 15 feet) works even better. When they do, according to the Pythagorean theorem, you have a 90-degree angle at the triangle's corner-and thus a perpendicular line intersecting the house. Now cross the taut line and the tape until you get the 4-foot and 5-foot marks to meet. Find the 5-foot mark on a measuring tape and angle it from the second stake toward the line. Tie a mason line to the first stake, stretch it taut roughly perpendicular to the house, and mark it 4 feet from the stake. Sink one stake for the triangle's corner where the first post will go, and a second one 3 feet away along the foundation. To square the fence line to the house, you'll mark off a right triangle extending from the foundation. Step 1: Position the Line Photo by Kolin Smith
However, if you rip only two strips out of a 1圆, you'll have enough width left over for the narrow sleeve parts. For the lattice panel stops, you can safely rip up to three from each 1圆 common cedar board.
Repeat for each panel, and customize the size of your panels as necessary to avoid partial panels in your run of fence. This cut list is for one 36-by-51-inch panel.
#Fence with lattice top install
#Fence with lattice top how to
How to Build a Wood Fence Overview Illustration by Gregory Nemec Day-to-Day Timeline Read on to see how he put this beauty together.ĭownload the cut list to build a wood lattice fence. "Just be sure to call 811 to have utility lines marked before you dig," says This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers.
Save even more by reserving clear cedar for prominent areas and using common cedar in places where its imperfections won't show. And though cedar is pricey, sleeving pressure-treated 4×4 posts in 1× cedar instead of paying for solid 6×6 cedar posts cuts costs. But a handsome design built from cedar parts also boosts curb appeal, which can't be said of even the finest chain link.
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